Make Up Techniques (4)
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Eye Shadow:
Eye shadow usually comes as a compressed powder and is applied with a small brush or small sponge-tipped
applicator. There are also eye shadows that come in liquid or crayon-type stick forms. The purpose of eye shadow is to create contours and
shadows around the eye to accentuate the eye shape. Colors are selected to enhance the natural eye color.
{Note: The act of shading the area around the eye has a physiological origin. Humans are biologically
predisposed to find shadowed eyes appealing. The reason for this has to do with sexual attraction and states of arousal. When a woman becomes
aroused, the increase in her pulse rate and blood flow causes a natural darkening of the soft tissue surrounding the eyes, which is a sign of her
arousal. The act of using artificial products to shade the eyes is designed to imitate this effect and draw the interest of the opposite sex.
This biological response is where we get the term 'bedroom eyes'.}
For daytime wear, eye shadow colors should be kept soft and light. Muted colors in a matte finish give a
natural appearance to the face. It should be applied carefully to avoid over-applying. Generally, for daywear, you should use a base color on
the lid that will accent the eye color with a neutral medium tone along the crease of the eye. Use a soft brush or sponge to blend the colors
and remove any lines of demarcation between the two.
For evening wear, eye shadow colors can be darker and more dramatic. This is also the time to use shadows
with shimmering or satiny finishes. To apply eye shadow for evening wear, you should begin with a base color along the upper lid that
accentuates the natural eye color. Next, use a light, neutral shade to highlight the area immediately below the outer half of the eyebrow. This
creates a stronger illusion of depth around the eyes. Finally, use a neutral shade that is darker than your base color along the crease of the
eyelid, following down to the outer of the corner of the eye and in a thin area just below the outer corner of the eye. Blend the colors
carefully using a soft brush or sponge to disguise any lines of demarcation between the colors and leave a soft transition.
Eye Shadow should be replaced at least every three-to-six months.
(Trivia Fact: Before the wide-spread availability of eye make-up, women used fireplace soot and sticks of
coal to enhance the shape of their eyes.)
Cheek Color (Blusher):
Cheek color is typically found in a compressed powder form and is applied using a soft brush. The purpose of
cheek color is to enhance the contours of the face and highlight the cheekbones. The colors used for the cheeks should be around two shades
darker than the foundation color.
{Note: The act of applying artificial color to the cheeks has societal and biological origins. Young women
were often considered more appealing for the fact that they were prone to blush when approached by a young man. The darkening of the cheeks and
general appearance of being flushed was considered attractive to most men. Because of this, women took to using artificial means to create the
effect, even when they weren't normally responsive in such a manner any longer. The idea was that it made them appear younger and more innocent.}
Daytime cheek colors should be soft and subtle. A light neutral or pinkish matte shade should be applied
directly over the cheekbone and a contouring color approximately one shade darker should be applied along the underside of the cheekbone to
create a contouring effect.
For nighttime wear, the process is the same, although slightly darker, shimmering or satiny colors are called
for. In both cases, the colors should be blended softly using a brush to avoid a line of demarcation.
Cheek color should be replaced at least every six months.
(Trivia Fact: In the periods before cheek make-up was available women used various techniques to create a
blush effect. Some women would pinch their cheeks just before a gentleman caller would arrive, while others would use tints created from crushed
flower petals or red berries to give more lasting color to the cheeks.)
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